I am learning to surf and as a dedicated beginner I am watching and reading everything related to surf. I read this book in a day, I loved it! Is a spiritual quest, an adventure of the mind and of the body.
Yamal Yogis ran off to Hawaii, when he was 16, to learn to surf and to find happiness. He narrates his journey in an engaging and universal way, I completely identify with what he learned and with the journey. He adopted the sea as his guru and and shared his inspiring vision with us!
” I’ve learned that I’m not the things I do or don’t do; I’m not surfing or Buddhism or writing. And yet all those things are. And I am. And we have naturally running to each other like colliding atoms creating molecules as we sail on into the foggy mystery. As an ancient Zen master said, “Elements of the self come and go like clouds without purpose.” And it all goes more smoothly, I’ve come to see, if you just let those clouds come and go freely- accept yourself, accept this.”
p.s. There is a documentary coming soon! can’t wait!